Wayne Nish, Executive Chef, March, New York NY
"How our family enjoyed most summer weekends was once a (now-lost) national pastime, with long drives and caravans of neighbor's cars tooling up the Taconic Parkway to a New York State park. The many observances I had of my father doing the Sunday grilling at these family picnics would have a powerful impact on how I would eventually approach my own cooking style.

My father who was half Japanese was almost ceremonial about his grill preparations. He was fundamental in his approach, from the careful arrangement of the charcoal briquets to the soy sauce-based marinades he would use for flank steak, London broil, or chicken.

It was simple food done well. My own professional aesthetic evolved from these early lessons: 'The assembly of the smallest details carefully executed will result in a beautiful product.' It is this same fundamental that is so important for my work at March. Even though long drives through the country are no longer part of the American landscape, the simple details that make for a successful meal still are."

Grilled Salmon

  • 6 6oz fillet of salmon, center cut, pinbones removed, skin intact
  • Seasalt to taste
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup dry mustard (such as Coleman's)
  • 1/2 cup white sugar
  • 1 cup cold water
Prepare a charcoal grill. When the charcoal is hot and has a coat of white ash over it push all of the coals to one side of the grill.

Pat the salmon pieces dry. Salt very lightly on both sides. Place the salmon pieces skin side down, on the cool side of the grill. Cover the salmon, in groups of two or three if necessary, with a small domed cover, such as a stainless steel mixing bowl. It is important to use a domed cover to enclose the fish. It is the slow hot air circulation that cooks the fish, not the hot coals.

Grill the salmon for 15 minutes without turning. Meanwhile, mix the mustard powder and sugar and whisk in the water until it has reached the consistency of heavy cream. During the last 3 or 4 minutes of cooking lift the domes and brush each piece of fish with olive oil. Replace the domes to finish the cooking. The salmon will be a whitish pink color and very tender to the touch and the skin will be brown and very crisp.

Serve each piece of salmon skin side up with a simple salad, if desired.

Serves 6

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