How our family enjoyed most summer weekends was once a (now-lost) national
pastime, with long drives and caravans of neighbor's cars tooling up the
Taconic Parkway to a New York State park. The many observances I had of my
father doing the Sunday grilling at these family picnics would have a powerful
impact on how I would eventually approach my own cooking style.
My father who was half Japanese was almost ceremonial about his grill
preparations. He was fundamental in his approach, from the careful
arrangement of the charcoal briquets to the soy sauce-based marinades he would
use for flank steak, London broil, or chicken.
It was simple food done well. My own professional aesthetic evolved from these
early lessons: 'The assembly of the smallest details carefully executed will
result in a beautiful product.' It is this same fundamental that is so
important for my work at March. Even though long drives through the country
are no longer part of the American landscape, the simple details that make for
a successful meal still are."
Pat the salmon pieces dry. Salt very lightly on both sides. Place the salmon
pieces skin side down, on the cool side of the grill. Cover the salmon, in
groups of two or three if necessary, with a small domed cover, such as a
stainless steel mixing bowl. It is important to use a domed cover to enclose
the fish. It is the slow hot air circulation that cooks the fish, not the hot
coals.
Grill the salmon for 15 minutes without turning. Meanwhile, mix the mustard
powder and sugar and whisk in the water until it has reached the consistency
of heavy cream.
During the last 3 or 4 minutes of cooking lift the domes and brush each piece
of fish with olive oil. Replace the domes to finish the cooking. The salmon
will be a whitish pink color and very tender to the touch and the skin will be
brown and very crisp.
Serve each piece of salmon skin side up with a simple salad, if desired.
Serves 6
[More Father's Day Grill Recipes & Tips]
Wayne Nish, Executive Chef, March, New York NY
"The gifts I gave my dad for Father's day were sure signs of the times in
which I grew up. I remember wrapping packages of Old Spice aftershave, talcum
powder, and cologne for him more than a couple of times while still in grammar
school after having heard the announcers on the Ed Sullivan Show the Sunday
night before.
Prepare a charcoal grill. When the charcoal is hot and has a coat of white
ash over it push all of the coals to one side of the grill.