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Roasted Mallard with Barley, Quince, Amaranth Caramel, Sauce au Gentian
Yield: 4 servings
1 Black Barley with Quince, see recipe
4 pieces chanterelle mushrooms, reserved
½ Tablespoon unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon angostura bitters, heated briefly with Game Sauce, for
plate
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
Amaranth Tuile
20 grams fondant
20 grams glucose, syrup
10 grams amaranth
Roast Duck
4 boneless duck breast halves
1 Tablespoon blended olive oil
Quince Gelée
3-4 whole quinces, depending on size of each
2 grams agar agar flakes, or 6 grams per liter of liquid
Chanterelle Sauce
3 pieces chanterelle mushrooms, finely chopped
1 Tablespoon heavy cream
¼ teaspoon shallot, diced
Butter
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Green Apple-Chive Salad
½ Granny Smith apple
1 ounce chives
Soak black barley overnight. Prepare Black Barley with Quince as per
accompanying recipe. Have Game Sauce available or prepare it according
to recipe.
Prepare the Amaranth Tuile, combine fondant and glucose syrup in a
saucepan. Bring to 186°F, caramelization. Incorporate the amaranth.
Turn out onto parchment paper. When cool enough to handle, form into
3-inch square by ¼-inch thick. When ready to use, place block between
2 pieces of parchment paper and place on a baking sheet in a 300°F
oven until soft enough to roll out. Roll out using a rolling pin to
1/8-inch thin rectangle.
For roasted duck, score the skin with diamond cross-cuts. Season with
sea salt and black pepper. In a lightly oiled pan heated to medium
heat, render duck fat all the way out, this will take approximately
45-50 minutes. Periodically pour off pooled fat from pan. Preheat
oven to 500°F.
Prepare Quince Gelée, peel and juice quinces. For this recipe
you will need 1 cup of quince juice. Bring juice and agar agar to
boil in saucepan, stirring. Boil 1 minute to activate agar agar. Transfer
to a rectangular dish such that the liquid will come up the sides
by ¼-inch. Cool to set. When set, cut to rectangles measuring 5-inches
by ¼-inch thickness.
To prepare the Chanterelle Sauce, sauté the chanterelle mushrooms
in a little butter for one minute. Add the shallots. Add the heavy
cream and cook for two more minutes. Purée in blender and adjust
seasoning to taste.
To finish the duck, roast breasts in preheated oven, skin sides down
in pan 5 minutes, or until medium-rare. Remove pan from oven. Place
entire sauté pan over high heat. Turn duck breast to oilier
side for 20 seconds and remove from pan. Rest. Slice each breast thinly
in sequence, cut on the bias.
For the Sauce au Gentian, warm the fortified game stock with the angostura
bitters.
To finish the dish, lightly sauté the reserved 4 pieces of
chanterelle mushrooms. Cut each into quarters. Slice the apple and
chive into julienne strips and combine.
To serve, in the center of a warm dinner plate, place the rectangle
of Quince Gelée with the short side up. Place an even layer
of black barley and quince pilaf over the gelée, leaving a
border. Fan the duck slices in sequence over the barley. Place the
Amaranth Tuile on top at a 45° angle diagonally to the right.
At the bottom right corner of the plate, pool a tablespoon of Chanterelle
Sauce, and place 2 quarters of the sautéed chanterelle mushroom
in it, top with a twist of the apple-chive julienne. Repeal on the
opposing side of the plate in the upper left. Trace the outline of
the central rectangle with Sauce au Gentian.
Black Barley with Quince
Yield: 4 servings
2 quinces, peeled, cored, slow roasted
2 teaspoons honey, drizzled over quince
2 sprigs thyme, rosemary, sea salt and black pepper
Vegetable stock or water to cover bottom of pan only
1 cup black barley, soaked overnight, or pearl barley soaked 1 hour
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 whole onion, finely diced
1 whole carrot, cut to very small dice
2 whole small turnips, trimmed, peeled, cut to very small dice
1 Tablespoon fresh garlic, minced
1 herb and spice sachet, with bay leaf, thyme, rosemary and juniper
berries
3 cups Vegetable Garbure, or more as needed, sea salt and black pepper
to taste
2 Tablespoons duck fat, or butter, or less as needed
1 Tablespoon parsley, chopped, chiffonade, as garnish (optionall)
Soak barley in plain water or stock overnight. If using pearl barley,
soak only one hour.
Preheat oven to 350°F for quince. For quince, place quince halves
in deep-sided roasting pan. Drizzle with honey. Add stock just to
cover bottom and avoid scorching during baking. Add herbs and spices
to pan. Season with sea salt and cracked black pepper. Cover tightly
with foil and let bake/steam approximately 45 minutes or until soft
and pink in color. Cool. Cut to small dice.
For black barley, cover with stock or water and cook, covered, without
salt until tender but still al dente, grams should be loose and almost
dry. Heat a deep-sided sauté pan, add the olive oil. When hot,
add garlic, when it begins to release its aroma, add onions, carrot
and turnips. Sweat until translucent. Add barley and toss to coat.
Add additional butter, only if needed. Season lightly with sea salt.
Bring
and keep Vegetable Garbure to the boiling point. Add the stock (or
boiling water, if using instead of stock) and sachet. Stir constantly
over heat until the liquid evaporates. Add only enough boiling liquid
with each addition to cover barley. Cook and stir until grains are
plump and tender. Remove sachet. Season with salt and pepper. Note:
The barley will be cooked when there's no starchy residue, it should
not be sticky or chewy, but tender with some tooth.
To serve, stir diced quince into barley. Warm together with just enough
duck fat or butter to blend the flavors. Garnish with chiffonade of
flat-leaf parsley.
Game Sauce
Yield: 4 servings or 3 cups of sauce
5¾ pounds wild game bones, cut up into 1-inch pieces, duck, squab,
pheasant
1½ whole Spanish onions, diced
1½ carrots, large dice
3 cloves garlic, unpeeled
2½ whole shallots, peeled, large dice
1¾ Tablespoons coriander seeds, toasted, crushed
700 milliliters Burgundy red wine, or about 3 cups merlot or other
full bodied red wine
Salad oil or peanut oil
Color duck bones in 1 tablespoon of oil over moderate heat, in a stainless
steel sauce pot. Reduce the red wine by one half, with 1 bouquet garni
sachet. Add the vegetables to the bones and color them as well. Moisten
with the veal stock and reduced wine and cook 2 hours at bare simmer,
skimming well. Remove from heat and allow to rest 20 minutes, and
pass through a sieve, twice. Do not press. Repeat process with new
bones if more strength is needed. Do not boil during reduction.
Meat Fortification for Game Sauce
Yield: 8 servings
The final rendition in transforming base stocks to plate sauces. For
venison add venison trimmings, for game foul add pigeon or other wild
game foul trimmings
1 small saucepan
1 cup Game Sauce
Venison trimmings, add Game Sauce
1 teaspoon each of carrot, onions and celery, minced
½ teaspoon tomato paste, best quality
Pan-roast meat scraps by heating the bones and/or trimmings on flattop
in 1 quart saucepan. Caramelize. When all edges are caramelized, add
1 tablespoon standard mirepoix (onions, carrots and celery)
and sweat. Add tomato paste, let it cook in and darken (pincée).
Keep draining off the fat from the pan. Add the Game Sauce to the
pan. Serve hot.
Vegetable Garbure
Yield: 4 servings
Cut the following ingredients into 1-inch dice:
¼ whole Spanish onion
5/8 carrot
1/16 white turnip
1/8 parsnip
1/8 zucchini
¼ fresh tomato
1/3 stalk celery
½ ounce mushroom stems and pieces
1/8 head garlic
½ stalk lemon grass
1/16 apple
1/8 orange
3/8 ounce fresh ginger root
Spring water
Tourrage
5 sprigs each; fresh dill weed, parsley, chervil, tarragon fennel
fronds
2 ounces cabbage, green, savoy or napa, sliced
1/8 star anise
¼ Tablespoon fennel seeds
Pinch black peppercorns and sel gris
Clean, dice or chop all the vegetables and seasoning ingredients except
those listed as Tourrage. Using a large heavy-bottomed non-reactive
stockpot, distribute the ingredients in layers beginning with those
that are the most firm such as carrots and parsnips and ending with
the least firm, mushrooms, tomatoes and fruits.
Cover with water; increase heat until water is barely trembling. Simmer
very gently about 1½ hours. Add the tourrage ingredients and turn
off heat. Let mixture steep at least 30 minutes. Strain without pressing
on solids. Cool before storing. Stock will keep 1 week in airtight
containers refrigerated, longer if frozen.
Wine Pairing
1996 Domaine de l'Arlot Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Clos de l'Arlot"
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