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Risotto with Shallots, White Pepper Sabayon, Fried Artichokes and Parsley
Yield: 8 servings
1 Roasted Shallot Juice, see recipe, reserve 2 cups liquid as shallot juice
1 White Pepper Sabayon, see recipe
8 Tablespoons Italian flat-leaf parsley, shredded, for chiffonade garnish
1 bunch Italian flat-leaf parsley, juice extracted, or blended and strained
2 cups artichoke bottoms, blended olive oil, to cover
Risotto
1 cup arborio rice
1 Tablespoon olive oil
2 Tablespoons onion, minced
1 Tablespoon celery, finely minced
1 Tablespoon carrots, finely minced
¼ cup chives, finely minced, divided
1 teaspoon shallot, minced
¼ cup white wine
2-3 cups Vegetable Garbure, or stock
Sea salt and black pepper to taste
Prepare the roasted shallots ahead. Reserve 2 cups of the juices. Let the White Pepper Sabayon cool; juice the bunch of parsley.
For risotto, heat a deep-sided sauté pan; add the olive oil. When hot, add onions, celery and carrots. Sweat vegetables until onions are translucent, add shallot. When shallots begin to release aroma, add arborio rice and toss to coat and take on a little bit of color.
Bring and keep Vegetable Garbure to the boiling point. Add the white wine, stir constantly over heat until the liquid evaporates. Add only enough boiling vegetable stock to cover rice. The object of this method is to limit the amount of liquid so that the rice won't stick to the pan as it's cooking and the starch will be drawn off the rice into the pan by the friction of stirring. As rice nears the end of cooking, finish with the Shallot Juice, in place of the Vegetable Garbure. Stir in half the chives, let wilt. Note: The rice will be cooked when there's no starchy residue, it should not be sticky or chewy, but tender.
To prepare the fried artichokes, heat oven to 350°F. Peel away all but heart and stems of the artichokes. Slice crosswise into paper-thin disks 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch using a mandoline or sharp paring knife. Place in a saucepot just large enough to hold the amount you are preparing. Cover with blended oil.
Heat a sauté pan to medium, add blended olive oil and lightly sauté the artichoke disks with shallots and chives, until beginning to color. Tilt pan, add butter and let foam. Incorporate into artichokes. Season with sea salt and pepper of choice. To finish the dish, season risotto with sea salt. Remove from heat. Mount with White Pepper Sabayon. Add up to 1 tablespoon chiffonade of parsley per dish.
To serve, place 3-4 ounces of risotto in the center of a plate. Arrange fried artichoke disks to stand in the center of the risotto. Draw a cordon (a ring) of fresh parsley juice around the risotto inside the rim of the plate, underlined with a thin cord of White Pepper Sabayon, applied with a squeeze bottle. Garnish with a plush of parsley (or basil), if desired.
White Pepper Sabayon
Yield: 10 servings, approximately 1 cup
7 ounces granulated sugar
About 1 ounce fresh egg yolk
3/4 cup heavy cream
4 pinches or turns of a peppermill filled with white pepper
Place the cream and the freshly ground white pepper together in a non-reactive (stainless steel) pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, paying careful attention not to allow the bottom to scorch.
In the bowl of a mixer fit with a whisk attachment, combine the sugar and yolks together. Beat on high until thick and pale in color (blanchir). This will take 5 to 8 minutes.
Temper the hot cream into the yolks as follows: gradually incorporate the hot portion into the cold portion by adding a portion equal to¼ of the hot mixture into the cold while stirring rapidly to disperse throughout. Then make successive additions while continuing to stir until the temperature of the cold liquid is equalized with that of the hot without allowing protein solids to form. Return the yolk-cream emulsion to the stove, and over a medium-low heat, stir gently until the mixture is thickened and thickly coats the back of a spoon (nappe). Remove from heat and cool. This preparation will not withstand high temperatures; do not bring back to a boil.
Vegetable Garbure
Yield: 4 servings
Cut the following ingredients into 1-inch dice:
¼ whole Spanish onion
5/8 carrot
1/16 white turnip
1/8 parsnip
1/8 zucchini
¼ fresh tomato
1/3 stalk celery
½ ounce mushroom stems and pieces
1/8 head garlic
½ stalk lemon grass
1/16 apple
1/8 orange
3/8 ounce fresh ginger root
Spring water
Tourrage
5 sprigs each; fresh dill weed, parsley, chervil, tarragon fennel fronds
2 ounces cabbage, green, savoy or napa, sliced
1/8 star anise
¼ Tablespoon fennel seeds
Pinch black peppercorns and sel gris
Clean, dice or chop all the vegetables and seasoning ingredients except those listed as Tourrage. Using a large heavy-bottomed non-reactive stockpot, distribute the ingredients in layers beginning with those that are the most firm such as carrots and parsnips and ending with the least firm, mushrooms, tomatoes and fruits.
Cover with water; increase heat until water is barely trembling. Simmer very gently about 1½ hours. Add the tourrage ingredients and turn off heat. Let mixture steep at least 30 minutes. Strain without pressing on solids. Cool before storing. Stock will keep 1 week in airtight containers refrigerated, longer if frozen.
Wine Pairing
1997 Andre Perret Bordeaux Blanc "Chateau du Seuil" or 1998 Condrieu |
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