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holiday dinner 2004
Chef Bradley Ogden
 

BRAISED OXTAILS WITH HOMEMADE NOODLES AND TOMATO GREMOLATA
recipe from Bradley Ogden's Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Yield: 4 servings

  • 2 Tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 ounces salt pork or slab bacon, cut into ¼-inch-by-1-inch pieces
  • 3 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
  • 2 pounds oxtails, cut into 1-inch rounds
  • 3 medium carrots, peeled, quartered, and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 2 stalks celery, split lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 1 medium onion, peeled and cut in 1-inch pieces
  • 1 medium leek, white part only, washed, quartered, and cut in 1-inch pieces
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled and mashed
  • 4 fresh plum tomatoes, peeled
  • 1 cup red wine
  • 1 cup chicken stock (separate recipe) or water
  • 2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • Herb bouquet made with 12 parsley stems, 4 thyme sprigs, 2 marjoram sprigs, 1 bay leaf
  • 1 recipe basic pasta dough (see recipe), rolled and cut into ½-inch-wide noodles
  • 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
  • Tomato Gremolata (see recipe)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place a heavy-bottomed ovenproof pot or skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil and the salt pork or bacon and brown, rendering the fat. Remove the browned pieces and set aside. Mix the flour with 1 teaspoon of the salt and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper. Dredge the oxtails with the seasoned flour and brown on all sides in the pot. Remove the oxtails and set aside. Pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the fat in the pot and add the carrots, celery, onion, and leeks. Sauté the vegetables for about 10 minutes or until golden brown.

Add the garlic, tomatoes, oxtails, salt pork or bacon, wine, stock, vinegar, and herb bouquet, and the remaining salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer on top of the stove, cover, and place in the preheated oven. Cook slowly until the oxtails are very tender, about 2½ hours. Skim the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid. May be prepared up to a day ahead and refrigerated. Reheat before serving. Cook the noodles until tender in boiling salted water. Drain and toss with the butter. Place noodles on serving plates, top with the oxtails and the vegetables. Sprinkle with the Tomato Gremolata.

TOMATO GREMOLATA

Yield: ½ cup

  • ¼ cup tomato concasse (see recipe)
  • ¼ cup parsley, coarsely chopped
  • 1 cup minced shallots
  • ½ teaspoon minced garlic (approximately 1 large clove)
  • Minced zest of 1 lemon
  • ½ teaspoon olive oil
  • 1/3 teaspoon malt vinegar
  • ¼ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a small mixing bowl just before serving.

TOMATO CONCASSE

Yield: about ½ cup

  • 1 medium-size tomato

It is important to choose a firm, ripe tomato. Core the tomato and make a small on the bottom with a sharp paring knife. Blanch the tomato in boiling salted water for 10 seconds. Immediately remove the tomato and immerse in ice water to stop the cooking.

Peel and cut the tomato in half. Over a bowl, carefully squeeze tomato half to remove seeds and juice, leaving the tomato intact as much as possible. Reserve seeds and juice, for stocks or soups. Cut the tomato into ¼-inch cubes or as directed in the recipe you are using.

BASIC PASTA DOUGH

Yield: 4 servings

  • 1 cup oil-purpose flow
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 teaspoon olive oil

Measure the flour onto a smooth work surface. Make a well in the flour and add the egg and olive oil. Begin stirring the egg and the oil with a fork, gradually incorporating the surrounding flour. Continue mixing until a stiff dough is formed. Not all the flour will be used. Knead in as much of the remaining flour as the dough will absorb. The dough should be stiff. Continue kneading for 2 or 3 minutes until the dough is smooth. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and let the dough rest for 1 hour before rolling.

Roll the dough between the rollers of a pasta machine, starting with the widest setting. Fold the dough in thirds the first two or three times through. Continue rolling with successively smaller settings. If the dough is sticking, flour lightly. Continue rolling to the desired thickness. For fettuccine or other noodles, let the dough dry for a minute or two before cutting according to the recipe. For ravioli, keep the dough sheets covered with a towel and use as soon as possible

VARIATION:

LEMON PEPPER FETTUCCINE

Add to above ingredients:

  • 2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper
  • 1 Tablespoon grated lemon zest

Sieve the ground pepper through a fine strainer. Discard the fine powder and reserve the larger pieces in the strainer to add to the pasta dough. This step will keep the fine powder from making the pasta look gray. Add the pepper and lemon zest to the flour in the basic recipe before mixing with the eggs and oil. Make sure the ingredients are evenly distributed. Roll the dough as you normally would. If the dough starts to tear on the thinnest setting of the machine, stop at a thicker setting.

CHICKEN OR TURKEY STOCK

Yield: About 1 gallon

  • 5½ pounds chicken or turkey parts includin
  • necks and carcasses, chopped into 2-inch pieces
  • 1 leek, white part only, washed
  • 2 medium yellow Spanish onions, cut into quarters
  • 4 medium carrots, peeled
  • 4 celery stalks, washed
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 16 parsley stems
  • 1 Tablespoon fresh cracked black
  • pepper

Combine all ingredients in a large stockpot with 5 quarts cold water, and bring to a boil. Skim, reduce heat, and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours. Skim occasionally to ensure a clear stock. Strain through a fine strainer. Cool immediately in an ice bath, stirring occasionally. Refrigerate or freeze.

Wine Suggestion:

Renwood Barbera, Amador County


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